SAMURAI COTTON PROJECT
“Making things in Japan, for Japan, in the Japanese way”
This project started with the dream of creating things 100% organically and domestically with our very own hands. The cotton would be grown and hand-harvested by us, and then used to make the highest-quality clothing possible. It sounds like a simple enough idea, but it’s extremely difficult in practice.
By about 1970, data shows that cotton production in Japan had fallen to basically zero,
with 99.9% of all cotton used in Japan being imported from overseas. As you can imagine,
the reasons for this was a combination of modern, efficient production coupled with
improved cotton varietals, but this of course comes at a price and requires huge
amounts of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. It may mean that cotton can be had at
lower prices, but the whispers you hear about the health problems of the growers and
the soil contamination this modern production can cause is not something we could just
ignore...
“Making things in Japan, in the Japanese way”
Cotton has a long history in Japan, flourishing first during the Edo period (1603~1867),
especially in and around Osaka where Samurai jeans is located, but then going into
steady decline from the Meiji period onwards (1868~) as demand outstripped supply and
importing became the norm.
It was right in the heart of this decline that we decided to stand, take up the challenge
of our ancestors, and restore the pride once found in the old, traditional ways of doing
things. We aim to revive these age-old techniques, and pass them on to our children
and grandchildren to ensure these traditions get passed on to future generations. This
is our pledge.
【Involve locals】
We feel it is part of our mission to involve locals, especially the children, and we take time to educate and provide opportunities for them to get involved and see how clothing is actually made. We do this through classes at a local elementary school close to our cotton fields in Sasayama, Hyogo, where cultivation, harvesting, spinning, weaving, and dyeing can all be learned about and experienced firsthand. We should keep reminding ourselves of the importance of passing things on to the next generation, and we believe that the garments we create don’t become true clothing unless many people are involved in the process.
【Interaction between urban and rural areas】
From March to October each year we hold monthly events out at the fields. These are awesome opportunities for people from the city who might otherwise have very little contact with nature to come out, participate, and refresh their minds, bodies, and souls, while at the same time learning an ancient skill.
【Pesticide-free: friendly to the Earth and people】
The cotton we grow is completely free of chemicals. Learning year-by-year, we have been able to improve the quality of the soil by drawing on the experience gained in maintaining the local bamboo forests that surround out cotton fields. We use bamboo charcoal, bamboo chips, chicken poop, and even old seeds as our fertilizer. Our fields are also teeming with mammal, reptile, and insect life of all kinds.
【Using abandoned farmland】
The number of abandoned houses and vacant fields has been increasing in Japan as people leave the countryside in search of a life in the big city. Not many young people want to farm like their grandparents did. To counter this trend, Samurai has been both revitalizing and using these vacant fields while at the same time creating employment opportunities for locals in cotton cultivation.
【Employment opportunities for people with challenges and disabilities】
After harvest, the removing of seeds from the cotton is all done by hand. We outsource this work as an employment-support project for people with challenges that might not otherwise be able to find conventional work.
What we’ve actually been up to:
There is no instruction manual for the growing of Japanese cotton, and we found out that just having the raw materials on hand wasn’t enough to get things right and start producing cotton right away. Truly a trial-and-error affair, it took us years of toil and making mistakes to produce any cotton at all. We looked back on our ancestors for inspiration and tried to glean what wisdom and experience we could, while at the same time reaching out to the kind of knowledgable locals for their assistance. We could not have realized this dream without the help of our many volunteers.
Planting, growing, and harvesting seeds. To the ultimate MADE IN JAPAN
3月
追肥・土壌整備
播種をする前に、畑を整える。
近年では、土の通気性・透水性・保水性・微生物活性に効果ができる竹炭や竹チップをまく。竹素材の肥料を活用することで、放置された竹林の整備にもつながる。
4～5月
播種
前夜に水につけ、１箇所に２〜３粒の種を撒く。また、初回播種で芽が出なかったところには、再度播種を行うことも、、、
6月~7月
間引き・草引き
間引きやマルチ内に生えた雑草を引き抜く。この作業により土の栄養が分散せず、強い幹を育てることができる。
6月~7月
適芯
株が５０cmを超えた頃、摘芯と呼ばれる作業を行う。株の先端部分を切り落とし、上へ上へと成長するための養分を分散させ、枝先まで養分を行き渡らせる。
7～8月
開花
和綿の花が咲き始め、コットンボールが徐々に大きくなってきます。
9~12月
収穫
コットンボールがはじけ始めます。手摘みでワタを収穫します。
9～12月
天日干し
収穫されたコットンは、天日干しをし、内部に含まれる水分を抜いていきます。
9～12月
綿繰り作業
綿繰り機という機械で、コットンに含まれる種を抜いていきます。この種は翌年に使われ、また、種から油を抽出し、食用油として生まれ変わります。
